
A stunning suite of ruby and diamond jewellery by legendary makers Cartier wowed bidders at Trevanion Auctioneers’ March jewellery auction. The suite sold for £5000 plus fees – all the more impressive because the delighted vendor had been offered less than a tenth of the hammer price by a jeweller just months before she consigned it into the auction at Trevanion Auctioneers.
The suite comprised a brooch and a pair of earrings, each modelled as a delicate flower head with gold petals and a central old cut diamond surrounded by five rubies. Crucially each piece had an engraved Cartier signature and inventory number, proving their authenticity beyond a doubt.


Created in the 1950s, the suite was a real transitional piece for Cartier, according to Jewellery specialist Amelia Tomkinson: ‘The old cut diamonds reflect the earlier Art Deco style that was hugely popular before World War II, but the overall design embraces the new aesthetics of the mid 20th century, with chunkier organic shapes designed to stand out strongly when paired with the bold fashions emerging at that time – as soon as I saw it I knew it was something special.’
Cartier has an illustrious history dating back to 1847, and Amelia has always been a fan. ‘When Louis-Francois Cartier started his modest jewellery workshop in Paris, it was with the aim of creating flamboyant designs which evoked a sense of fun, and that’s what I love most about Cartier. I wonder if Louis-Francois realised that his three grandsons – Louis, Pierre and Jacques – would drive the company to new aesthetic heights, earning a Royal Warrant from Edward VII and gaining Cartier a reputation as the jeweller of kings, and the king of jewellers.’


The delighted vendor was in the saleroom when the suite went under the hammer, and witnessed the ensuing bidding battle which took place both online and in the room. When they first brought the suite to Trevanion Auctioneers, they had previously had it valued by a jeweller who had offered them a few hundred pounds for it, but they were wise enough to seek a second opinion. ‘With gold prices sky high and people being encouraged to sell their jewellery for scrap, it’s vital that people with pieces to sell pause for a moment and consider all their options,’ says managing partner Christina Trevanion. ‘Gold is a highly valued commodity, but the scrap value of gold jewellery doesn’t take into account other key factors, like who made it, when they made it and what it looks like, all of which can make a piece worth much more as jewellery than it might be once it’s melted down. My advice to anyone considering selling their jewellery is to make an appointment with our FGA qualified jewellery specialist Amelia, who can give you proper advice on a piece’s true worth, rather than just plonking it on a scale and whipping out a calculator.’
Trevanion Auctioneers will hold their next specialist jewellery valuation days on Wednesday 1st April and Tuesday 7th April. To book a valuation appointment call 01948 800202.